A Golden Age of Graffiti

It’s a lofty title, I know, but let me try and explain myself.  I chose my neighborhood, almost exclusively, because it had the best graffiti.  When wandering around looking for apartments, my wife and I found ourselves in Bellas Artes.  It’s like another world, or at least like another wing of a museum (imagine walking from the ice age exhibit with wooly mammoths and then taking a turn and seeing suits of armor… is this metaphor working for you?).  The big slap in the face is the vibrant neon coloring of the majority of the buildings, the large increase in the number of bars and clubs per capita, and some amazing graffiti.

It was a Sunday when we toured the area, so we didn’t get the chance to take advantage of the bars that afternoon.  Instead we admired the bug eyed monsters and beautiful scenes spray-painted on the shutters.  Most of street art is surreal in nature, often dark and cartoony, but there are some done with undeniable precision and realism.  It’s like the whole neighborhood went on an acid trip and woke up to a new décor. 

Whenever I walk around in this neighborhood, I have this distinct sense that I’m living in the early 90’s.  It’s not just the neon colors or the mullets (yes, many people are walking these streets with mullets but that’s a different issue), it’s the innocence of the graffiti.  Sure it’s strange, but it’s in no way offensive.  It’s fun and playful, like the early days of popular rap with Run DMC or Jazzy Jeff and the Fresh Prince (please don’t judge).  The kind of rap you’d let your parents listen to.

Maybe it’s just my poor Spanish skill, but I didn’t find as many obscenities sprayed on the wall as in the United States.  The intention of the artist seems innocent expression and beautification.  Often, I even find old people admiring the walls, not shaking their heads and complaining about the youth of today, but smiling and appreciating.  I myself usually feel inspired and, sometimes, jealous.

I don’t know if the street art is commissioned or what, but the artists are far from secretive about their projects.  Even if it’s a solo project, people are stopping by and giving the artist snacks and refreshments.  The only thing the police do is pat the artist on the back.  The source of my jealousy is this; most places I’ve lived, I couldn’t even paint the inside of my apartment a different color, never mind try spray-painting the building.  Yet these free spirited bohemians seem to get to do whatever they want with, and while drinking free beer none the less! 

I don’t mean to give the impression that artists are free to repaint the city in any way they desire, I don’t mean to say that there aren’t still little scamps tagging the statues of historical figures, I don’t mean to say that there isn’t the occasional offensive phrase scribbled outside an abandoned factory.  What I mean is that, in Bellas Artes at least, many of the buildings have become tapestries and that no one seems to mind.  If you give people the freedom to do be as artistic as they want, sometimes it turns out pretty cool.